Ben Doctor, the NYC-based designer behind last year’s NYFW presentation “Rotten Goodbye,” returned to NYFW this year with his latest collection, “Roulette.”
Known for blending deep thematic storytelling with innovative design, Ben’s work captures the gritty yet hopeful spirit of New York.
In this interview with Basta, Ben reflects on his evolving creative process, the darker tone of this year’s show, and the inspiration behind the bold, uniform-inspired designs. From chance encounters to meticulous casting, Ben shares how “Roulette” marks a turning point in both his brand and his vision of the city.
Ben Doctor: Last year felt much more like an experiment. We were all just really curious and excited. This year was more about pushing things to the next level. What can we do more styling, hair, and casting, that can make the storytelling and the creation of the show much that more intentional and thoughtful.
Basta: The theme of your show was "Roulette." Can you elaborate on how this concept influenced your designs and what it represents in the context of your brand?
Ben Doctor: I went to a casino for the first time this year. And I was surprised by how much I resonated with the experience. It was about hope, taking chances and having fun. Mostly about losing but. It captured a feeling and a story I wanted to share about life and New York. I think the brand tries to capture a very honest expression in this way.
Basta: Your previous collection bid farewell to an idealized "Old New York." How does "Roulette" reflect your vision of the city's current identity?
Ben Doctor: It paints a much darker picture of the city. Maybe filled with people mourning its death but still choosing to continue on. The conclusion has an optimism to it. There’s nothing left to do but move forward and try to see the positive in dark truths.
Basta: The concept of "Roulette" suggests an element of chance. How much of your creative process relies on spontaneity versus meticulous planning?
Ben Doctor: I think it’s exciting and also important to not have everything planned all the time. Nothing will 100% come out exactly how you envision, and in order to make anything work it takes trial and error. I wouldn’t say any of it is meticulous necessarily.
Basta: I noticed elements of uniform-inspired designs in your collection. What inspired this direction?
Ben Doctor: The cording and marching-band-like direction came from this idea of Odette’s character being a soldier. She’s forced to “march” amongst the people. And I think I imagine the young New Yorker as fighting for each day.
Basta: I loved the way your shows play with hair. Could you share more about the creative decisions behind your approach to hair?
Ben Doctor: Thank you so much. The hair story was a big part of expanding the narrative of the “Black Swan”. We were trying to depict the image of a swan stuck in an oil spill.
Basta: As someone in the New York's fashion scene, what advice would you give to emerging designers trying to make their mark in the city?
Ben Doctor: The best advice I can give is to just not let yourself get in the way of doing something you love, and what you want to make happen. There are so many obstacles and keeping momentum and motivation can be challenging. What keeps me moving forward is loving the making of a collection.
Learn more about Ben Doctor's work @bendoctor and www.bendoctor.com
Ben Doctor BTS Show Photographs by : Alexis Kleshik and Emma McLoughlin
Interview by Katie Kern for Ben Doctor